The Way to Restore Antique Maple Furniture
It is going to gain from a well-conceived and well-executed refinishing and restoration procedure unless your maple furniture is in pristine condition. As of 2002, that’s the official place of the popular television program,”Antiques Roadshow,” as elucidated by executive producer Peter J. Cook, and it puts to rest the notion that it’s better to leave antiques since they are. A well-conceived restoration believes the present finish and the condition of the piece, how it’s created. A well-executed procedure eliminates defects while changing the initial qualities of the piece as little as possible.
Remove from the piece and set it apart. Part of this restoration process includes polishing the hardware depending on the material where it’s created, after you are done refinishing and re install it to the piece.
Wash the piece down with a solution of 1 gallon of water, 2 tablespoons of turpentine and 4 tablespoons of boiled linseed oil. Wear rubber gloves so that you can make the water as hot as possible, and wash with a clean cloth. After washing dry the piece with a different fabric. Sometimes, this is.
If you are not certain what it is, Examine the finish. Dab on a little lacquer thinner on an place and it’s lacquer if the finish dries. Attempt denatured alcohol, which softens a finish if the finish does not soften. You’re dealing with varnish if the finish stays tough.
Strip the finish to alter the color or fix scrapes and extensive dents. If the piece is finished with lacquer of shellac, then washing it off, allowing it to sit for 5 minutes and brushing on a coat of interior woodwork stripper often removes of the finish. Wipe the piece dry using a rag after washing it.
Scrub finish off . If you have to scrape a set place, use a paint scraper. While scratching wear a respirator, gloves and goggles. Once you are done to neutralize the stripper wash the piece using a garden hose and wash the piece with a clean cloth.
Address defects. If you are restoring a seat, re-glue any loose spindles, using carpenter’s glue and bar and C-clamps to hold the piece together while the glue dries. Re-glue and clamp them, if you are restoring a desk with laminations that are separating. Now is the time to do it if you have a piece to replace an old one.
Sand the piece minimally, because fine-grain sandpaper leaves telltale scratches. Avoid paper coarser and sand by hand if possible, going. Utilize a development of grits on each place that you sand, finishing off with 220- or 320-grit paper.
Brush wood conditioner on the wood using a paintbrush. Commercial conditioners contain paraffin, which seals it and divides into the grain, preventing any blot you employ from blotching. Omit this step, if you don’t plan to blot.
Apply stain with a rag and rub off it after 2 or 3 minutes, if wanted. Maple develops an attractive honey color that you may not wish to hide with a blot, from slumping the color with a brownish 32, but there is nothing stopping you. This works well when the piece is naturally distressed.
Finish with no longer than two coats of lacquer or, for the most natural look, penetrating oil. Maple does not require protection from a finish and is a tough wood, and since the piece is an antique, you don’t want to detract from the lavish patina it has evolved through the years using a coating coating. Apply one coat of material, wait for it to dry, then sand it with hand using 400-grit sandpaper and apply the second coat.